clubby man
3 posts
Joined: 24/06/2006 16:50:21
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
1973 clubman brake master cylinder reapir kit
Looking for a seal kit for the brake master cylinder on my 1973 clubman. It’s a Lockheed cylinder but I cant seen to find a kit. I found a possibility on the site - part number GRK1009 van anyone confirm that this is the correct kit.
Posted: Aug 19, 2006 08:43 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Are you bleeding them using the two man method or with a pressure kit like eezibleed? Also one assumes the pedal is connected properly! Maybe you could try the old trick of wedging a block of wood between brake pedal and steering wheel with master cylinder cap off overnight, the idea is any air bubbles work their way out slowly to atmosphere. That's an old trick that sometimes yields results (easy enough to try).
Posted: Jun 13, 2010 01:58 PM
Carl
4 posts
Joined: 30/10/2007 19:56:35
Location: derbyshire United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
soft brake pedal
I have just overhauled the brakes on my mini, I have put a new set of disc on the front overhauled the front calipers, new hoses on the front, new master cylinder, new servo, new shoes on the back. I bled the brakes with a 1 man bleeding kit but i still have no brakes the pedal is really solf, I have no fluid loss at all and a have tried bleeding the brakes 3 or 4 time with new fluid. i have a type 4 tandam system on a 2000 1.3 spi can any body help??
Posted: May 13, 2012 09:29 PM
eric newon
1 posts
Joined: 10/04/2011 12:19:43
Location: streamwood, il United States
Brake issues- mpi mini
I've recently made some changes to my brake system. I have installed a KAD rear disc brake kit, new brake servo, and new master cylinder. For the life of me I'm unable to get a solid pedal after bench bleeding the master cylinder and pressure bleeding the system after the master is installed. I re-bled the master 2 more times and the entire system maybe 10 times with no luck at all and also left the pressure bleeder attached over night with 5psi. the next morning it showed 5psi, no leaks! All this work is not complicated and a no brainer... This kind of work can be done blind folded and is very easy. the only thing I can think of is I have a faulty new master cylinder. The system worked with no issues before all this work was done. Am I missing something? My brake fluid bill is adding up as well as my headache.
Posted: Sep 05, 2013 02:29 PM
paddy the irishman
10 posts
Joined: 07/01/2008 20:56:29
Location: ballymoney United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch pedal seized
your mini is 1990's so the brake master cylinder will be located on the brake servo. that leaves only one master cylinder on the bulk head which is the one or the clutch. To bleed the clutch cylinder it will be easier and cleaner (BRAKE FLUID STRIPS PAINT) to use a pipe kit from halfords. Go easy with the hammer on the clutch arm as you can easily crack the clutch housing if it's not already cracked. You may have to remove the split pin from the pivot pin and take it out before cleaning it all up with sand paper and reassembling with copper grease. Have fun an GOOD LUCK>
Posted: Jan 07, 2008 09:23 PM
Lucas
19 posts
Joined: 23/03/2008 12:12:08
Location: Paull United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brakes!
i had the bleed sequence wrote down somewhere, I found it on a post in here and I did follow it but didnt get any fluid from anywhere at all, it has to be the brake master cylinder, is it worth replacing the seals with the seal kit available on here or is it best to just buy a whole new thing for the extra £40 or so?
Posted: Jul 13, 2008 12:00 AM
Tim
1850 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Something's seized - either the master cylinder, the slave cylinder, or the clutch lever assembly.
You can check if the master cylinder is seized by opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, and then trying the pedal (use a bleed kit if you have one, otherwise put lots of old rags round the valve as you don't want brake fluid everywhere). If the pedal now goes down, that means the master cylinder is OK.
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 11:39 AM
Liirge
2 posts
Joined: 16/09/2007 19:42:23
Location: Goudhurst United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Parts
Hello,
I hope this is the right place for this but i need to query parts on this site to see if they will Fit on to a 1966 Morris Mini Moke, with the 10" Wheels.
The following parts i'm hoping will fit, please correct me if im wrong.
R\H Rear Brake Backplate built up kit, 21A1058KIT
L\H Rear Brake Backplate built up Kit, 21A1060KIT
R\H Front Brake Backplate built up kit, 37H2013KIT
L\H Front Brake Backplate built up Kit, 37H2014KIT
Brake Master Cylinder, GMC171
Clutch Master Cylinder,GMC1008
Clutch Slave Cylinder Pre Verto, GSY110
Thankyou very much, iam very eager to hear your responses and to get this project moving!!
Regards
Alastair.
Posted: Oct 30, 2007 05:14 PM
master cylinder repair or buy new????
I assume you have the master cylinder with built in servo? If there's fluid in the servo (presumably you have already dismantled it to find this out?) then it definitely needs new seals, and the repair kit is a much cheaper option than replacing the whole thing. However, you need to make sure that the cylinder bores are not damaged (scratched, scored or worn) or you will be wasting your money. Extreme cleanliness is required when doing this.
As for your brake pipe question, I can't really help you. I wasn't aware that the brake fittings changed during the life of the mini, but it's possible they went metric towards the end. You didn't specify the year/model of yours. Contact the supplier to check you bought the right ones.
Posted: Nov 19, 2010 12:02 PM
martin smedley
27 posts
Joined: 27/01/2009 22:02:41
Location: darlington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
my brakes headach
right here goes, as from day 1 of owning my 1991 mayfair with drums up front i have had a nightmare with the brakes, now i have fitted a new master cylinder, a new brake limiter valve and new wheel cylinders all round and have bled brakes both manually and with easy bleed kit and have no pressure under the pedal untill i pump it 3 or 4 times then when released i loose the pressure again, i am not sure if my brakes are adjusted properly could this be the cause or not, i have bled manually twice and with easy bleed several times and now get no bubbles in tube, and bled in order rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver is this correct sequence,
your help will be much appriciated and will help my mini back on the road!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted: Apr 24, 2009 08:54 PM
Dual circuit brakes
You're right, that shouldn't happen. You may have a problem with the master cylinder - I would suggest a trip-down and rebuild is required. There are apparently several different m/c's from that era, check to make sure you order the right rebuild kit. This site is extremely useful: https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/brake-controls-up-to-1988
Posted: Oct 10, 2022 05:09 PM
Alfred Harkness
Joined: 26/07/2009 23:24:43
Location: Cookstown United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Servo Trouble
The problem relates to the servo on my 1990 Mayfair, green label master cylinder. I have just fitted a new master cylinder to the servo unit as the brake pedal had been sticking a little bit. Now when the brake pedal is pressed it will not return and has to be pulled back up with your toe.
What could be causing this, would a brake servo repair kit cure the problem and if so, were can you get information on how to fit it.
Thanks
Alfie.
Posted: Aug 01, 2015 09:47 PM
LewisCr125
136 posts
Joined: 13/04/2006 17:03:39
Location: Old Knebworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Stage 3 Head (998)
Got an '89 and thinking of wacking on a stage 3 head. From what i've read on here someone fitted the mini spares stage 1 kit and stage 3 head and got 43% increase in power.
Has anyone experianced these stage 3 heads? Also Mini Sport do stage 3 heads a lot cheaper than mini spares. Are these heads as good as the mini spares head? Also is it best to stick with the copper gasket or buy the other type?
Also going to fit a new clutch into my car. I've replaced mini clutches on stand engines. Is the only difficult part ripping out the brake master cylinder and vacuum? Oh and the shortage of working space?
Before anyone says. I DON'T want to fit a 1275 engine. I like the fact of having a reasonably fast small bore.
Posted: Jan 31, 2007 01:36 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
brakes
you need new hubs calapers and discs, cheapest way is to find some from a scrap yard or ebay as new parts are expensive, prob half the value of the car. if u use 2nd hand setup most likly it will be 8.4" setup this will reqire 12" wheels to fit over them, which will increase gearing slightly (improve to speed and mpg but reduce acceleration) and make speedo will read too low. if you wish to keep 10" wheels to keep the car centre of gravity lower and the acceleration faster. then u will reqired 7.5" ( mk1-3 cooper s setup plus some clubman 1275gt's) or 7.9" discs.
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34525
these can be used with or without a servo but will reqire more pedal pressure without servo but stoping distances arnt affected. you may be reqired to change master cylinder as drum brake minis i belive have smaller cylinder meaning if used with discs you will put ur foot to floor and the discs wont be bitting fully. (servo cost around £130 new cheaper off ebay 2nd hand again) you can also fit ventlated 4 pot systems for around anouther hundread pounds (mini sport do these make sure u get kit for drums to discs, not from discs to uprated discs). but arnt really reqired unless ur doing alot off accelerating and braking like on racing tracks with higher tuned cars for 998 normal discs are fine. 7.5" should keep you from going into the back of modern cars as long as ur not right up there ass while they do a emergency stop. dont buy 7" cooper discs, they are not much better then twin leading shoe drums, they wernt origionally designed by bmc but were a student reserch project that john cooper saw and thought they would be good for the cooper mini, media was very impressed at time till they took it for test drive and realised they were nuthing more than show and are very prone to brake fad with extended use due to small pad area and small disc to distribute heat. if you cant afford any of it, two mods can help. 1 fit finned alloy drums at frount without build in spacer if possible(improve cooling to stop brake fad in hard braking), and uprated material brake shoes (more bite). wont be as good as discs but will help that will cost around 100-150 to do, and if u eva uprate to discs u can just pop the alloy drums on the back.
Posted: Feb 12, 2007 08:40 PM
bopper1959
39 posts
Joined: 10/11/2005 21:52:41
Location: cardiff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brake Problem
hi mate,
i have had similar problems in the passed with brakes and clutch, so i have used an easi-bleed kit which is a one man bleeding kit and you connect it to a spare tyre and it pressurises the whole system, what i've been told is that the seals in the master cylinders tempereraly collapes and need a bit more than man power to kick them back in hense pressurising the system,
hope this info is some help, you can purchase one of these kits from any car accessory shop.
regards mark
Posted: Sep 20, 2007 07:02 AM
Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brade Master Cylinders
Hi can anyone shed any light on how to determin what sort of master cylinder i have.
The master cylinder is a tandem system with a square tank and a brake fail switch on the tank cap there is a zip tie around the body which could be yellow but is so discoloured it is hard to tell. I thought it was a GMC 227 cylinder so i purchased the appropriate repair kit but it doesnt seem to fit the seals that go into the body of the cylinder to seal the tank to the body have too big a hole and the piston seals also seem to be slightly to big to get into the bore of the cylinder.
any help greatly appreciated
The car is a 1983 mini mayfair 1000
Posted: Jan 31, 2011 07:56 PM
Mo
33 posts
Joined: 04/09/2008 20:06:22
Location: APO AE United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
No initial brake pressure
Hello all,
I'm hoping that someone can help. I got my mini back from the shop, and to say the least, I wont be taking it there any more. The brakes have to be pumped to get any pressure out of them. It does have a new master cylinder, I did not install it though, it was installed before I bought the car. Is it possible that it's not the correct master cylinder and that it's missing a check valve or some such which is causing this pressure failure, or is it something that just needs further bleeding?
-James
I was having the same problem. I checked all my break lines and found B-Nut slightly leaking. Check all the connections and I would bleed it out again. Dot 4 or Dot 4+ fluid is not expensive. They have kits you can purchase to do a one person bleed. Hope this helps.
Posted: Jul 29, 2009 12:36 PM
miniclare
14 posts
Joined: 29/03/2005 11:32:29
Location: Flitwick United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brake Master Cylinder
Hello, Just wondered if anyone could help me, as I am a bit confused over all the Brake Master Cylinder repair kits available!
I need one for a 1978 Mini Saloon. My Master Cylinder has Lockheed written on it, so I think I probably need the one for a GMC 153. Although it says this type was fitted to early Mini's and Coopers?
Can anyone help?
Thanks.
Posted: Aug 19, 2007 12:02 PM